If you can successfully install a light bulb without breaking it then you can install LEDs.
Currently, LEDs do not replace low beam or high beam headlights. They may be used as Daytime Running Lights.
Only install LEDs of the correct dimension to replace your bulbs - many 'fancy' LED types will not fit any car and are a waste of money.
Important: Install one LED at a time and verify that it works - do not install ALL LEDs at one time!
More Important: Your new LEDs require much less current than light bulbs, therefore to maintain the effectiveness of a fuse you must change to lower amp fuses for circuits where light bulbs have been replaced by LEDs. For example, if your sidemarker lights fuse is currently 10 amps you can probably go to a 2 amp fuse for many applications.
Even More Important: Do not leave a LED in a socket unless it actually works. If you cannot get it to work then remove it and put a bulb back in, but never just leave a LED in an apparently non-operational location - it may cause a short circuit and if your fuse has a high amp rating then it may melt wires or the LED or worse. Understand?
DO NOT go for a drive until you have verified that your LED installation was successful and all lights are operating!
PLEASE use special bulb grease (available at most auto parts stores, ie. Autozone) to make installation and removal of LEDs easier for future changes/replacements.
LEDs for Stop/Brake lights must be installed in the Stop/Brake light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored RED and are only for the Stop/Brake light location.
LEDs for Rear Parking/Tail lights must be installed in the Rear Parking/Tail light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored RED and are only for the Rear Parking/Tail light location.
LEDs for Front Parking lights must be installed in the Front Parking light location ONLY - these LEDs are usually colored AMBER and are only for the Front Parking light location. Some older vehicles use WHITE front parking lights, these can be updated with AMBER to comply with modern design rules (FMVSS 108, CMVSS 108 and ECE).
LEDs for Front Turn Signal lights must be installed in the Front Turn Signal light location ONLY - these LEDs are usually colored AMBER and are only for the Front Turn Signal light location. Some older vehicles use WHITE front turn signal lights, these can be updated to AMBER to comply with modern design rules (FMVSS 108, CMVSS 108 and ECE).
LEDs for Rear Turn Signal lights must be installed in the Turn Signal light location ONLY - these LEDs are usually colored AMBER but in many American-delivered cars may also be RED in the rear lights and are only for the Turn Signal light location.
LEDs for Reverse lights must be installed in the Reverse light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored White and are only for the Reverse light location.
LEDs for Number Plate lights must be installed in the Number Plate light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored White and are only for the Number Plate light location.
Important: Verify that the existing bulb/lamp/globe is functioning before installing the LED replacement.
You can use a standard 9V toy battery to easily test most LEDs and check polarity.
Guide to successful LED installation:
Please follow the instructions in your OEM workshop or owners manual for bulb/lamp/globe replacement:
- Disconnect the battery, if you are working on instrument gauge panels or other areas where a short circuit could occur!
- LEDs are either 'polarized' or non-polarized' meaning that it matters where + - is on the LED
- The 'push-in and turn' LEDs (Photo A) as used in most stop/brake lights can only be installed one way so 'polarization' is not an isssue - if it is, then you're car was wired wrong, this does happen on some cars.
- All v12s LED Arrays are easily installed and work first time, every time.
- The thin 'pencil' shape LEDs (Photo B) as used in many dome/roof applications are usually polarized and need to be installed correctly.
- Capless LEDs (Photo C), as used in many instrument gauges or sidemarker applications may be polarized or non-polarized.
- Insert the LED and test - if it does not light then remove the LED turn it 180o and re-install - it should now light.
- See below for specific locations - v12s customers please email if you have questions regarding v12s LED installation ONLY, - please direct all specific auto electrical issues to your auto electrician.
Instrument Gauge Lights:
- These LEDs are now mostly non-polarized - don't buy the cheap junk!
- If you are changing color (limited applications) - you must remove the 'light filters' that are installed behind the gauges - many older instrument gauge assemblies use small plastic lenses in front of the bulbs to create a filtered light of a different color.
- For example: older Jaguar use small green colored plastic light filters to provide green light, if you wish to change color then you can simply remove these light filters and install a different color LED (blue, red, white and amber is available).
- Best results in cars using Smiths gauges will be achieved if you keep the LED slightly away from the gauge face when pushing the LED into the gauge (ie. E-Type, XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguar).
- Jaguar XK8 and XJ8 gauges can use LEDs to get better lighting but color can't be changed.
- Make sure that if you have removed the wire harness connectors from the back of the instrument panel that, when you replace them for re-installation, the connectors are firmly snapped back into their sockets.
Instrument Warning Lights:
- These LEDs, in most cases, are polarized - it is important to install them with + - in the correct location.
- Turn your ignition to 'on' and note which warning lights are illuminated - remove the illuminated bulbs one at a time and install a LED.
- Insert the LED and test - if it does not light then remove the LED turn it 180o and re-install - it should now light.
- DO NOT install LEDs in warning light locations that are not illuminated - you must verify that each LED will illuminate.
- An easy way to install LEDs in a warning cluster that has lights that are not illuminated is to test each LED in two known working locations, verify that the LED is illuminated in the first working location, remove it and mark it on one side so that that you can install it in the second known working location to verify that the polarity is consistant for the whole warning cluster, then you can install it in a non-illuminated location. Usually, two known working locations are the high-beam and battery lights, these will illuminate with the igition switched to on but without starting the engine.
Stop/Brake Lights:
- These LEDs are now mostly non-polarized, the metal base LEDs are non-polarized so you can install them without regard to + - and they will work, some of the capless LEDs are non-polarized.
- Wide-angle LEDs are best for all tail light applications, v12s LED Arrays that fill the whole lens are even better and considerably brighter.
- If your car is equipped with a 'bulb failure' warning light then you may have to install a 'ballast resistor' or 'bridge' - or disconnect the module.
- If your LEDs seem slightly lit even though your brake lights or tail lights are off you may have a ground/earth problem, voltage 'bleedthrough' is often an issue with badly grounded connections.
Turn Signal/Indicator Lights:
- These LEDs are now mostly non-polarized, the metal base LEDs are non-polarized so you can install them without regard to + - and they will work, some of the capless LEDs are non-polarized.
- All LED Turn Signal kits from v12s are supplied with special flasher/indicator/blinker relays to work correctly and blink at the correct rate (some models are excluded - see our v12s LED Upgrades at www.v12s.com for more information).
- Some high-powered LEDs will work quite well with the standard flasher relays, although they may blink a little faster.
- If your car is equipped with a 'bulb failure' warning light then you may have to install a 'ballast resistor' or 'bridge' if you did not purchase the flasher/blinker relay from v12s.
- If your turn signals 'blink' too slowly try removing the 'flasher' can and re-installing it - sometimes the contacts are a little corroded and this may ensure a better electrical contact.
- If your turn signals 'blink' too rapidly you may have to install 'ballast resistors'.
- Always install turn signal LEDs BEFORE installing the flasher relay.
Sidemarkers:
- These LEDs are now mostly non-polarized, the metal base LEDs are non-polarized so you can install them without regard to + - and they will work, some of the capless LEDs are non-polarized. Most v12s capless LEDs are non-polarized.
- Sidemarker colors often vary by car manufacturer, some are amber and some are red, use a LED that matches the lens color. Most older European cars have no sidemarkers or only front sidemarkers.
