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The v12 Analogy Fan 101 Guide Do you sell sway bars for Jaguars? Do you sell Jaguar OEM parts? Do you offer paint matching for shrouds? Which type of fan system is best? Does my car need a v12s fan system? What are 'Normal' temperatures on a V12 XJS? The difference between flat & curved blade fans? Do I need a fan shroud? The difference between 'Dual' and 'Twin' Fans? Should I use a thermostatic switch with a relay? Will my engine run cooler if I remove the shroud flaps? Should I use colder thermostats? Should I use radiator hose filters? My car gets hotter the faster I drive? Does v12s install parts? Other modifications to keep my engine cooler? How can I get more horsepower from my v12? I live outside the USA - Do I pay VAT, Duty etc? Fan System Warranty LED Installation Guide Copyright, Prices and Shipping Notice
The v12 Analogy Think of a v12 engine as you would think of a freight train. If you were driving a Freight Train you wouldn't put the brakes on when you get to the station, you would put the brakes on a long way before you get to the station. This concept applies to the v12 engine. You wouldn't start your cooling fans when you reach operating temperature, you would start your cooling fans before you reach operating temperature. There's a lot of metal and a lot of fluids that need to be cooled and it can't happen instantly. Back to top of page
Fan 101 Guide by v12s Some fan sellers appear to defy Ohm's Law when describing their fans, apparently they haven't heard of Ohm's Law. As an example, a 14 inch fan with a 90 watt motor draws approximately 7.5 amps, not 10.2 amps, at 12 volts DC. The same 14 inch fan with 90 watt motor draws approximately 6.7 amps, not 10.2 amps, at 13.5 volts DC. Check out Ohm's Law to determine if the fan seller's claim's match the fan being sold. Some fan sellers promote CFM as being the only important consideration, but it's not. As an example, a 16 inch fan with a 250 watt motor (apparently only 10 amps at 13 volts?) - is claimed to generate over 3600 CFM at zero static air pressure- that's 3,600 Cubic Feet of Air Per Minute, or presented another way - enough power to move all the air out of a room that measures more than 22 feet by 20 feet with an 8 foot ceiling in just 1 minute. I would welcome fan manufacturers enlightening me with their scientific proof. A word about quality: there's plenty of cheap Chinese fans available that look the part but are nothing more than mere inferior copies of brand name fans. Did you know that the plastics used in cheaper fans are inferior polyproylene mixes? This makes these inferior fans less impact resistant and less capable of coping with high temperatures - ie. brittle. Quality cooling fans are made with plastic composed of glass-filled nylon. You get what you pay for, right? Some people don't care about what they sell to you, we do. I've built several hundred electric cooling fan assemblies for v12-engined cars and others, so I have some experience in choosing the right electric fan and weeding out the fact from fiction. My fans are 70% more powerful than the common asian fans available elsewhere. So, here's what I look for when choosing fans. Firstly, some things to think about before buying an electric cooling fan: - does your car have a/c condensor mounted in front of the radiator? - does your car have a seperate oil cooler mounted in front of your radiator and/or a/c condensor? A 10 inch fan with an 80 watt is fine for most applications where only a 10 inch fan could fit - this excludes all V8, V10, V12 and bigger engines. A 14 inch fan with a 90 watt motor that spins very fast may be OK if you have a thin radiator and no A/C condensor or other coolers in front of it - it's not OK for a V12. If you have A/C then I would choose a fan that has a 120 - 160 watt fan motor. If you have an A/C condensor and another oil cooler in front it then you would want to use a fan that has a 160 - 225 watt fan motor. When you bought a 'shop vac' what did you buy? The weakest or the most powerful? Of course current draw is important, but that doesn't mean sacrificing engine cooling. If your classic car does'nt have enough amps to get the job done properly then buy a more powerful alternator and battery. Destroyed engines due to a lack of cooling, especially in classic cars, are an expensive and foolish error. And what about curved blade fans versus straight blade fans? The patent for curved blade fans only claims that they are quieter than straight blade fans, there are no claims of more airflow (all things being equal). In conclusion, this Fan 101 isn't meant to cover everything but it is meant to highlight fact from fiction. Back to top of page
Q. Do you sell sway bars/anti-roll bars for Jaguars? A. No, go direct to www.addco.net for sway bar upgrades for many Jaguars. They are the main manufacturer of the sway bars that you'll find are being sold by many at a markup. Back to top of page
Q. Do you sell Jaguar OEM parts? A. Try jaguarclassicparts.com for a full range of OEM parts directly from Jaguar, or check our *Useful Links* page. Back to top of page
Q. Do you offer paint color matching for shrouds? A. No. You can order all Jaguar paint colors at towerpaint.com. Back to top of page
Q. Which type of fan system is best? A. We only build fan systems that draw air through the radiator, sometimes referred to as 'puller fan systems'. This is most efficient. Systems that try to push air through a radiator face two problems: 1. they're only about 80% efficient because the radiator deflects at least 20% of the air, and 2. the fans themselves actually block the airflow to the radiator, whether the fans are running or not. Our fan systems work better. Back to top of page
Q. Does my car need a v12s fan system? A. Check your trip computer 'average speed' - is the average less than 35 mph? If yes, then your car would benefit from a v12s fan system. If you always drive at highway speeds then probably not - cars don't need fans about 35 mph. Back to top of page
Q. What are examples of 'Normal' temperatures on a V12 XJS? A. These temperatures recorded after a normal drive - summer, 88⁰F (similar temps recorded for Porsche 928 S4). Top radiator hoses - around 192⁰F Oil filter 210⁰F Exhaust manifolds 325-350⁰F Catalytic converters 358-393⁰F Exhaust tips 148-155⁰F Inlet manifolds 146-154⁰F Coolant overflow tank 195⁰F Valve covers 226-228 ⁰F Brake discs 206-211⁰F Use an infrared thermometer (minitemp NAPA) and compare your temperatures. Back to top of page
Q. What's the airflow difference between flat and curved blade fans? A. How long is a piece of string...? - there are too many variables to give a definative answer to this question. The patent for curved blade fans (S-Blade) only claims that the fans are quieter than flat blade fans; but the number of blades, the pitch, the strength of the motor and other features could make a curved blade fan output more airflow or less airflow. We quote the standard manufacturer's fan motor wattage figures. Back to top of page
Q. Do I need a fan shroud? A. Our electric fan systems are complete with a handcrafted shroud. A fan shroud will allow your electric fans to draw air across the whole surface area of your radiator. If you simply attach one or a couple of electric fans to your radiator core without a shroud then you will reduce your ability to cool your engine by at least 30% - 40% or more. It's a big mistake to simply insert an electric fan in an old mechanical fan shroud and attach it to your radiator as the shroud is now ineffective. Back to top of page
Q. What's the difference between a 'Dual' and 'Twin' Fan System? A. A twin fan system has two fans that are identical in size and performance, a dual fan system has two different size and performance fans. Back to top of page
Q. Should I use a thermostatic switch with a relay? A. Yes. Our optional Thermostatic Relay Systems include thermostatic switches. A thermostatic switch to control your fan relay(s) will: 1) allow faster engine warm-up, 2) prevent battery drain by cycling the fans on and off, only as needed, and 3) extend the life of your electric fans. Back to top of page
Q. Will my engine run cooler if I remove the rubber shroud flaps? A. No. It'll actually get hotter because the fans will draw air from these 'open' flaps instead of drawing air through the radiator core. Back to top of page
Q. Should I use colder thermostats? A. No and don't remove your thermostats either! Your engine was designed to run at a specific temperature for emissions, performance and fuel economy. If you install colder thermostats then your engine will take longer to warm up, creating carbon deposits and more emissions, perhaps fail state DMV inspection (Emmission test failures are listed on CarFax reports - do you need this?). The key to keeping a healthy engine cool is to give it enough cool fluids, ie. coolant and oil (and some ventilation), and to start the cooling of those fluids before the engine gets too hot. Back to top of page
Q. Should I use radiator hose filters? A. No. If you change your radiator fluid on a yearly basis then you don't get dirty radiator fluid. Adding filters moves the blockage to another location but certainly doesn't help your engine from overheating. Do you want to protect your engine or your radiator? Back to top of page
Q. My car runs hotter the faster I drive, will your fan system fix this? A. Absolutely Not. Cars don't need fans when driving above 35mph. If your engine starts getting hotter as you drive faster then your engine or radiator has a serious problem and an electric fan system won't help you. Check your radiator. Have your engine oil analyzed to determine whether you have engine damage before spending any money on fixing overheating problems. Try titanlab.com for do it yourself oil and fluids analysis services. Back to top of page
Q. Does v12s install parts? A. No. We design and handcraft products to sell via the web. We are not a dealership, nor are we a retail store, we don't take phone orders nor do we provide technical phone support - if you have a question, please email. You must have tools and mechanical and electrical ability to install one of our fan systems or LED upgrades or suspension products, if in doubt go to an experienced technician and/or auto electrician. Incorrect installation, as with any part on a vehicle, may result in serious damage, injury or worse. Back to top of page
Q. What other modifications can I make to keep my engine cooler? A. 1. start with a cooler auxillary fan switch, our 82⁰C is ideal, 2. if you have an automatic (most XJS) add a seperate transmission cooler - this should drop radiator coolant temps by about 10⁰C, 3. relocate your engine oil filter to a remote cooler location - we have kits for your Jaguar for this, 4. consider an electric water pump - it eliminates heat soak after you turn off your motor and provides consistant cooling at low revs, not to mention that you regain lost horsepower - we have electric water pump kits for your v12, 5.Lastly, add a quality aluminum radiator - check the 'Useful Links' page for quality Aluminum radiators available in the USA and UK (don't waste your money on another 'OEM' standard radiator). Back to top of page
Q. How can I get more horsepower from my v12? A. There's a lot you can do to regain lost horsepower - better breathing, less restrictions, less burden on your engine. Besides a tune-up and better plugs, timing, high octane gas, etc. etc. Do not remove emmissions equipment. Here's a bunch of suggestions that will let you pickup 60-80 horsepower: 1. v12s Electric Cooling Fan System, 2. v12s Electric Water Pump, 3. v12s Performance Air Intakes, 4. Straight-through Mufflers (after cat, before resonators), 5. Performance Resonators, 6. Performance Catalytic Converters (Magnaflow 94004), 7. v12s Remote Oil Filter, 8. v12s Intake Air Temperature Sensor Kit ... need more?. Back to top of page
Q. I live outside the USA. Do I have to pay VAT, Duty etc.? A. We design, fabricate and source our materials and components locally in the USA. Our products are shipped from tax-free New Hampshire. All items entering a foreign country are subject to customs inspection and the assessment of duties and taxes in accordance with that country's national laws. Customs duties and taxes are generally assessed if the merchandise is dutiable and the value of the item is above a set amount determined by that country's laws. These charges may be due at the time of delivery and they are separate from shipping charges. We won't ship items as 'gifts' or 'scrap'. Back to top of page
Fan System Warranty We warrant our electric fan system and relay products to be free from defective material or workmanship for a period of 90 days or Lifetime Warranty from 1/1/2007 for as long as you own the vehicle - (0 days for vehicles used in race events) from the date of purchase. Warranty applies only to electric fan system and relay products. Warranty is limited to repairing or replacing of electric fan(s), electric fan system or relay ONLY. There are no other expressed or implied warranties. Warranty is null & void on electric fan system and relay products installed incorrectly, damaged through abuse or modification, shipping damage, repairs, alteration or disassembling by unauthorized persons. We reserve the right to change specifications, design, price or discontinue electric fan system and relay products at any time without notice and without incurring any obligation. You, the purchaser, agree to assume all liabilities for any damage and/or bodily injury which may result from the use or misuse of our electric fan system or relay products, whether installed directly by you or your employee or agent or mechanic. Warranty is NOT transferable. All electric fan system and relay products returned for warranty must have shipping prepaid and include a valid Return Authorization number. Back to top of page
LED Guide (revised May 16, 2007) WARNING DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL Instrument Gauge or Warning Light LEDs in cars equippped with Air Bag Supplemental Restraint Systems as there is a risk of air bag deployment if installation is done incorrectly! ONLY a qualified auto electrician should attempt installation on air bag equipped vehicles! DO NOT attempt installation of LEDs unless you are mechanically and electrically competent. LEDs are electronic devices not incandescent bulbs. If in any doubt, go to a competent auto electrician and/or mechanic, and ensure that these installation guidelines are reviewed prior to installation. As with any part on motor vehicle incorrect installation may cause unforseen damage or failure. DO NOT go for a drive until you have verified that your LED installation was successful and all lights are operating! PLEASE use special bulb grease (available at most auto parts stores, ie. Autozone) to make installation and removal of LEDs easier for future changes/replacements. Important: Install one LED at a time and verify that it works - do not install ALL LEDs at one time! LEDs for Stop/Brake lights must be installed in the Stop/Brake light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored RED and are only for the Stop/Brake light location. LEDs for Rear Parking/Tail lights must be installed in the Rear Parking/Tail light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored RED and are only for the Rear Parking/Tail light location. LEDs for Front Parking lights must be installed in the Front Parking light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored AMBER and are only for the Front Parking light location. LEDs for Turn Signal lights must be installed in the Turn Signal light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored AMBER and are only for the Turn Signal light location. LEDs for Reverse lights must be installed in the Reverse light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored White and are only for the Reverse light location. LEDs for Number Plate lights must be installed in the Number Plate light location ONLY - these LEDs are colored White and are only for the Number Plate light location. Important: Verify that the existing bulb/lamp/globe is functioning before installing the LED replacement. Guide to successful LED installation: Please follow the instructions in your OEM Workshop Manual for bulb/lamp/globe replacement: Disconnect the battery, if you are working on instrument gauge panels or other areas where a short circuit could occur! LEDs are either 'polarized' or non-polarized' meaning that it matters where + - is on the LED The 'push-in and turn' LEDs (Photo A) as used in most stop/brake lights can only be installed one way so 'polarization' is not an isssue The thin 'pencil' shape LEDs (Photo B) as used in many dome/roof applications are polarized and need to be installed correctly. Capless LEDs (Photo C), as used in many instrument gauges or sidemarker applications may be polarized or non-polarized Important: Install one LED at a time and verify that it works - do not install ALL LEDs at one time! Insert the LED and test - if it does not light then remove the LED turn it 180^o and re-install - it should now light. See below for specific locations - please email if you have questions regarding LED installation ONLY - please direct all specific auto electrical issues to your auto electrician. Instrument Gauge Lights: These LEDs are now mostly non-polarized, check polarity as you install them. If you are changing color (limited applications) - you must remove the 'light filters' that are installed behind the gauges - many instrument gauge assemblies use small plastic lenses in front of the bulbs to create a filtered light of a different color. For example: Jaguar use small green colored plastic light filters to provide green light, if you wish to change color then you can simply remove these light filters and install a different color LED (blue, red, white and amber is available). Instrument Warning Lights: These LEDs, in most cases, are polarized - it is important to install them with + - in the correct location. Turn your ignition to 'on' and note which warning lights are illuminated - remove the illuminated bulbs one at a time and install a LED. Insert the LED and test - if it does not light then remove the LED turn it 180^o and re-install - it should now light. DO NOT install LEDs in warning light locations that are not illuminated - you must verify that each LED will illuminate. Stop/Brake Lights: These LEDs are now all non-polarized so you can install them without regard to + - and they will work. If your car is equipped with a 'bulb failure' warning light then you may have to install a 'ballast resistor'. Turn Signal/Indicator Lights: These LEDs are now all non-polarized so you can install them without regard to + - and they will work. All LED Turn Signal kits are now supplied with special flasher/indicator/blinker relays to work correctly. If your car is equipped with a 'bulb failure' warning light then you may have to install a 'ballast resistor' if you did not purchase the flasher/blinker relay from v12s. If your turn signals 'blink' too slowly try removing the 'flasher' can and re-installing it - sometimes the contacts are a little corroded and this may ensure a better electrical contact. If your turn signals 'blink' too rapidly you may have to install 'ballast resistors'.

Copyright © 2008 All Rights Reserved. v12s and the v12s logo are ® trademarks NOT affiliated with Jaguar, Ford, Audi, Lamborghini, Volkswagen or Porsche in any way. Specifications, Design, Components and Prices subject to change without notice. All electric fan systems are an exclusive proprietary design. Fan motor wattage ratings are provided by the manufacturer/supplier. Photos are examples of fan systems only.